The Shalamar Gardens are located on the Grand Trunk Road, some 5 kilometers northeast of the old Lahore city. There were two other Mughal gardens, known as Shalamar, one at Srinagar, and the other at Delhi. While the one at Srinagar still survives, that at Delhi has completely disappeared. In Shalamar Gardens at Lahore, aptly called the “Versailles of Punjab”, nature and man have combined to make them lovely, while history and legend have woven much romance. Due to its universal value the Shalamar Garden has been declared World Heritage cultural site by UNESCO in 1981.
The Shalamar Gardens laid out as a royal pleasure garden at the command of Emperor Shah Jahan, express the pure aesthetic taste of Mughal landscape architecture, and embody the Mughal concept of a perfect garden: an enclosed area divided into symmetrical parterres of turf, containing murmuring waters of canals, and calm mirrored surfaces of ornamental tanks, splashing fountains, rippling and singing cascades, swaying cypresses, bushes of roses, misty spray of the fountains drifting in the open fronted summer pavilions, shady promenades, raised platforms in the turfed areas, and above all, a deliciously cool and pleasant atmosphere. It was constructed on the orders of Emperor Shah Jahan by his noble Khalilullah Khan in a very short time of one year. The foundations of the gardens were laid on the July 12, 1641 and completed on October 31, 1642.
To irrigate the Shalamar Gardens a canal named “Shah Nahar” (Royal Canal) was dug from the river Ravi at Rajpur (Madhopur), one hundred miles in the north east of Lahore.
The Shalamar Gardens, laid out in three terraces, descending from south to north, covering an area of 16 hectares, are surrounded by a high wall with serrated battlements. The corners at the end of terraces are occupied by “burj”. The inner of the wall is relived with cusped arched panels of varying sizes. Originally, the gardens were entered through two elegant gateways, pierced in the eastern and the western walls of the Lowest Terrace. The terraces of the Shalamar Gardens were named after the plantation, which flourished in them.
Upper Terrace
Its name was “Farah Bakhsh”, on this terrace only flowers and sweet scented shrubs were planted. This terrace was purely for “Harem-e-Shahi” (Royal princes and Ladies).
Middle Terrace
Its name was “Faiz Bakhsh”, on this terrace fruit trees were planted. On both these terraces, flower plants of every season and clink were grown.
Lowest Terrace
Its name was “Hayat Bakhsh”, on this terrace fruit and shady trees were planted.
All the three have same area, the symmetrical garden plots are divided by intersecting canals into foursquare parterres. The raised brick walkways were also constructed.
The meaning of “Shalamar” has been variously interpreted, most popularly of all as “adobe of bliss” or “light of the moon”. The most possible interpretation, however, seems to be that the word “Shalimar” is a corruption of original “Shalimar”, composed of “Shali” (rice paddy) and “mar”(black loamy soil), in the Kashmiri Language. “Shalimar”, therefore, meant “black loamy soil for growing paddy”. In any case, the first Mughal garden, bearing the name “Shalimar” was laid out in Kashmir, and may have derived its name from Kashmiri language.
A wonder full system was adopted to provide water in the Shalamar Gardens. Ali Mardan Khan a Persian noble and Governor of Lahore, sought permission of Emperor Shahjahan to build a canal (Shah Nahar or Royal Canal) with the help of Mulla Ala’ul Mulk Tuni, an expert in hydrology. There was perfect system of irrigation for the Shalamar Gardens. Shalamar Gardens beard heavy losses during Sikh and British periods. Although, present Shalamar Gardens are those, constructed by Mughals but kinds of plantation is not of that time.
Buildings in the Gardens
The gardens contains so many buildings. These charming buildings include “baradaries” or summer pavilions, “Diwan-e-Khas-o-Am” or Hall of Private and Public Audience, “Khwabgah” or sleeping chambers, “hammam” or bathhouse, elegant gateways and towers.
Upper Terrace (Farah Bakhsh)
The Upper terrace alone has eight buildings, four in the middle of the sides, and four in the corners:
- ARAMGAH: In the middle of the southern side was the royal “Aramgah” or resting chambers. Comprising three rooms, it is fronted with a deep veranda having three cusped arched openings in front, and one on each side. The middle room has a fountain like a foaming spring. Originally, the building was decorated with charming frescoes. As a result of the change in the alignment of the Grand Trunk Road, the “Aramgah” now serves as the main entrance constructed by Major Macgregor, a Deputy Commissioner of Lahore in early British period. The upper terrace, which is 5 meters high than the middle terrace, terminates at a brick wall. The northern face of the wall, in the central part of the middle terrace is embellished with cusped arched panels in red sandstone and white marble. Originally, the entire wall was surmounted by an exquisite marble grill. Two red sand stone staircases through the wall, one each on the east and the west of the “Aiwan”, provide access to the central part of the middle terrace. Beyond, the staircases two ramps paved with brick-on-edge, lead to the eastern and the western parts of the middle terrace.
- JHAROKA -E-DAULAT KHANA-E-KHAS-O-AM: In the middle of the eastern side was originally the building of “Jharoka-e-Daulat Khana-e-Khas-o-Am” or Balcony of the Hall of Private and Public Audience.
- NAQQAR-KHANA: In front of the “Jharoka” on the outside, there was a hall with separate enclosure of its own. This enclosure is also commonly known as “Naqqar Khana” or house of drums.
- KHWABGAH BEGUM SAHIB: Opposite the “Jharoka” on the western side of the terrace, is a similar building known as the “Khwabgah Begum Sahib” or sleeping chambers of the Empress.
- AIWAN OR GRAND HALL: The arcaded building in the middle of the northern side, overlooking the great marble cascade, and the two lowest terraces, is the “Aiwan” or Grand Hall. Originally, it was also embellished with exquisite frescoes. The walls of the Grand Hall have marble dado. Mirrored ceiling in various bays is reminiscent of Sikh repairs. This hall was used for ceremonial purposes.
- CORNER BURJ: Close to the “Aiwan”, on its southeast, is a small and simple building, with an underground cellar, built by Ranjit Singh (1799-1839). Each corner of this terrace is occupied by a “burj” or tower comprising an octagonal chamber surmounted by a red sandstone octagonal pavilion.
MIDDLE TERRACE (FAIZ BAKHSH)
Important Buildings of this terrace are “Hamam”, “Mahtabi” and “Sawan Bhadun”.
- HAMMAM: In the eastern wall of the middle terrace, near its southeast corner is located the “hammam” or bath suite comprising a “sard khana” or dressing room. Originally, the interior of the bath was decorated with delicate pietra-dura work.
- MAHTABI: In the center of the great tank, approached from the pavilions by red sandstone causeways, is a raised platform called “mahtabi”, or of the moon since it was used for sitting out of doors to enjoy the moonlit night. The “mahtabi” is paved with marble and has grilled marble railing.
- PAVILIONS: On the eastern and the western fringes of the great tank are two pavilions built in red sand stone.
- THRONE: In between the great cascade, below the “Aiwan” and the tank, is placed a royal marble throne, with skillfully perforated railing. It was on this throne, that the emperor used to sit himself in state, on important occasions.
- SAWAN BHADUN OR DIP MALA: On two sides of the middle of the northern side, there stand two pavilions which were originally built in marble, but are now lime-plastered. In between the pavilions lies a deep tank. Its three marble-faced walls have “chinikhana” or small niches, in which golden flower vases were placed in the daytime, and camphored wax candles at night. The fourth side of the tank i.e. northern side is open. Water from the three-sided “abshar” or waterfall pours over the projected points in a sheet, in front of the niches, the reflections of the flowers in golden vases, or of the flames of the candles, creating an endless chain of flickering light, split into colored reflections on the water sheet, falling on the opposite walls. This eerie optical illusion of shimmering light and colored reflections on the water sheet, in front of the niches, is also called “Dip Mala” or chain of lights. Popularly the scene is also described as “Sawan Bhadun”, after the two months of local calendar, associated with spells of rain and bright sun respectively.
LOWEST TERRACE (HAYAT BAKHSH)
This terrace is 1.5 meters below from the Middle Terrace. The following buildings are situated in this terrace:
1 – THE MAGNIFICENT GATEWAYS: The two elegant gateways embellished with chaste enameled tilework provided in the eastern and the western walls.
2 – DAULAT KHANA-E-KHAS-O-AM: The lowest terrace contains an arched pavilion in the middle of the northern side. This was the Hall of Private and General Audience. The dado of its walls was in marble and the entire building was originally decorated with dainty frescoes. In the middle of this hall, there was a fountain like a foaming spring.
3 – BURJ: The northeastern and northwestern corners of the terrace are occupied by “burj” or towers as in the upper terrace.
